First week cruising in Vanuatu

In addition to partying the evenings at the bar, behind Logic‘s marina berth at the Yachting World Marina, Port Vila, VanuatuWe also provisioned the boat for 3-4 weeks cruising around Vanuatu.

Fruit and Vegetables were sourced from the local market (see previous blog post).

I was very pleasantly surprised by the quality of the supermarket, 10mins walk up the hill from the Marina.

As good a range of stuff as we get in Australia and the prices was not much more.

The beef on sale is locally produced and tastes as good as the best I have ever eatenThe French influence has fresh baguettes available and to Marisela’s and mine delight, plenty of soursopsIn Fiji I added plantains (cooking bananas) to the boat cuisine. Fried in coconut oil and sprinkled in ground cinnamon, they are delicious

  In March 2015 Tropical Cyclone Pam hit Port Vila at Category 6, 30 plus boats that where in Port Vila harbour sank, others like this ones, washed ashore, where they have remained ever since

we left Port Vila

for Port Havannah

passing yet another of the boats, written off by TC Pam

Anchoring in Sunae Bay at the top of Port Havannah (25NM)as was the case in most of our anchorages in Vanuatu, we where the only boat in the anchorage.

But there was plenty of obvious activity by the local villagers. Who where busy at dawn, net fishing and  dug-out canoes going past

The girls went for a SUPand a snorkel

The next day we moved to Fultok Bay on Lelepa Island (8NM)

 The guide gave us good waypoints to find our way through the gap in the skirting reef, then avoid the shallow reef just inside the entrance then the directions where to find a good clear patch of sand, to drop the anchor in, but I was not expecting to see some of those black spots to be such substantial coral headsafter we had made our best guess on where to drop the anchor and not get the anchor chain tangled around the bigger of the coral heads, I snorkelled the coral heads to make sure none of them where going to be an issue at low tideThere was 2mts of water over all of them

The galvanising on the anchor chain is taking a hammering from these coral anchorages

With the anchor finally in, it was time to take in the glorious anchorage

The water visibility, especially on the outside of the skirting reef, was what I expected in Vanuatu, with no land mass to wash sediment into the seadefinitely time for a snorkel, with the underwater camera

we departed at first light the next morning

for Lamen Bay on Epi Island (63NM)Vanuatu is part of the South Pacific “ring of fire” with obvious new volcanic islands on our starboard

Much to Logic‘s enjoyment she had the 15-20kt SEly trade wind on her beamwith 2 reefs in the main and a partially unfurled genoa we averaged close to 9kts

Coming into Lamen Bay in the early afternoon

Leman bay is a must see in Vanuatu, due to the dugongs and turtles feeding on the sea grass bed in 5mts of good visibility water, ideal for snorkeling with them.

As the anchor was digging in, we could see a dugong 50mt away

While I was SUPing around I met a lovely young couple of French backpackers,  Guillaume and Gwendoline (Bill and Gwen). It was sundowners time so I invited then back to Logic for downers it was a magic downers as we watched the dugongs repeatedly surfacing close to Logic

Bill and Gwen where keen go to the Maskalyne Islands, as this was our next stop, I offered to give them a lift the next day.

I had been hoping to go snorkeling with dugongs in the morning, but there where none about, so the girls SUPed off for a snorkel 

While I went ashore to pick up Bill and Gwen and have a walk around the village

It was Sunday, so the girls where dressed in their best frocks

They must not see a lot of white westerners, as after I took the photo the youngest one had to come over and stroke my hairy lower legs.

The adolescent boys where keen for a chat and jumped at the chance to pose for a photothe one in the red shirt, spent last summer picking apricots and apples in Southern Australia.

TC Pam devastation to Vanuatu was again evident, this time in the damage it did to the village jetty

Rather amazingly they where still using it, to load and unload the Island Trading Barge

Bill and Gwen had taken down their tent and packed their backpacks, so it was time to go back to LogicStill no dugongs,

just as I started pulling up the anchor, one came swimming across the bay behind us, heading for the feeding ground. So I let the anchor back out and grabbed my snorkel gear and the underwater camera

With a tick now in the snorkel with Dugong box, we left for the Maskalyne Islands (23NM)

With the active volcano on Lopevi Island astern

and  Ambym Island on the starboard side, with her two active volcanos hidden in a mix of  cloud and volcanic plumein addition to Bill being a wine maker in training he is a cook, who paid for their passage in the galleythe 3 permanent (older) crew got a lot of enjoyment out of having the 2 young effervescent adventures on board Mobile internet out in the islands has been non existent to very poor, resulting in a backlog of blog posts photos, which I am making my way through.

Vanuatu is now my favorite country in the world, the country of smiles, as you will see in the next few blog posts